Vertical Cellular Installation Instructions

Do I need to buy hardware or screws?

BASIC TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

  • Measuring Tape
  • Power Drill and Drill Bits
  • Long Flat Blade Screwdriver
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Carpenter's Level

In addition to the tools, you will need a supply of mounting screws to attach the installation brackets. For non-solid surfaces, such as drywall or lath and plaster, wall anchors or expansion bolts are required.

Installation Brackets are attached either inside or outside the window or door opening. Both metal and plastic brackets are available, but the plastic brackets can be used on inside mounted or ceiling mounted Vertical Cellulars only. Spacer blocks can be used with the metal installation brackets to extend the Vertical Cellular out from the mounting surface to clear obstructions. The stationary rail bottom bracket fits into the stationary rail and is attached to the floor or wall to secure the rail. An adaptor allows the bracket to be inside mounted to the casement. If necessary with outside mounts, an extension bracket can be used to extend the stationary rail bottom bracket away from the mounting surface.

A magnetic strip and steel pull strip may be used on inside mount applications and center opening designs for full closure along the entire height of the moving rail(s). Other components include top rail end caps for outside mount applications; a center pull plate for center opening designs; and a handle for each moving rail. Before beginning the installation, check to be sure you have all the Vertical Cellular materials needed for your particular installation. Then, clear a work space at least as large as the Vertical Cellular's outside dimensions and read these instructions all the way through to acquaint yourself with the installation procedures.


                           


There are four design options of Vertical Cellular shades: left stack, right stack, center stack, and center opening. The installation procedures for the four designs are very similar. We will feature the left stack procedures and point out the installation differences among the other three designs as we go along.

              

1) ATTACH THE INSTALLATION BRACKETS

BRACKET SPACING Two installation brackets are positioned on the mounting surface approximately 8" from the ends of the shade, and additional brackets are spaced evenly between the two end brackets. See the following list for the number of brackets required. Measure and mark all bracket locations.
  • SHADE WIDTH UP TO 79":    3 BRACKETS
  • SHADE WIDTH 79" - 127":     4 BRACKETS
  • SHADE WIDTH 127" - 168":   5 BRACKETS

For center opening designs over 168" wide, two top rails are butted together end-to-end. Bracket quantities are calculated separately for each rail, plus one additional installation bracket is included with the shade. This additional bracket is positioned where the two rails meet to align them accurately.
INSIDE MOUNTS With inside mounts, attach the tops of the installation brackets to a flat horizontal surface at least 1" deep with plastic brackets or 1 5/8" deep with metal brackets. To fully recess the shade, the opening must be at least 3 1/4" deep with either type of bracket. Additional depth is required if the shade needs to be moved away from the door or window to clear obstructions that protrude more than 5/8" toward the fabric. Installation brackets for ceiling mounted shades are attached the same way as inside mounts.


OUTSIDE MOUNTS With outside mounts, attach the ends of the installation brackets to a flat vertical surface at least 1 3/8" high. Position the brackets at the locations you marked, with the tops of the brackets at a height equal to the ordered height of the shade plus the desired floor clearance (3/4" is standard). Align the tops perfectly horizontal using a carpenter's level, and mount the brackets with the appropriate fasteners (three per bracket).

Spacer blocks can be used on outside mounts to project the installation brackets away from the mounting surface so that the shade can clear obstructions which would interfere with its normal operation (protrusions of 5/8" or more). Up to three spacer blocks can be used between the mounting surface and the end of the installation bracket. Each spacer block adds a 1/2" of clearance. The solid side of the spacer block must always face the mounting surface.

2) ASSEMBLE THE VERTIGLIDE

COMPONENT ARRANGEMENT Refer to the following illustrations and arrange the shade components on the floor with the front (colored) side of the fabric panel and the front of the top rail (the wider curved side) both facing up. Caution: Do not put tension on the cord when arranging shade components.

With a left stack design, position the moving rail bracket (the bracket with the two bearings) next to the left end of the top rail. With a right stack design, position the moving rail bracket next to the right end.



A cord tensioner may already be inserted into the front groove at one end of the top rail, with an end plate attached to that end of the rail. If so, move the cord tensioner to within 2" of the end plate to avoid putting tension on the cord when the components are arranged. If the end plate is not attached and the cord tensioner not inserted, do not install them until after you assemble the fabric and vertical rails onto the top rail. For illustration purposes only, the left stack design is shown above with the cord tensioner and end plate installed, and the right stack design is shown below with these components not installed.



With a center stack design, there are two moving rails, each with a moving rail bracket. If an end plate is attached to one end of the top rail, position the fabric and moving rails next to the other end. If no end plate is attached, the fabric and rails can be installed onto either end of the top rail.



The center opening design has two fabric panels, each with one moving rail. Position the moving rail brackets at opposite ends of the top rail.



With all designs, it is important to remember not to put tension on the cord while the shade is being assembled. The cord is connected to a cord tensioning spring which can be damaged by excessive cord tension. After the shade is mounted, the cord tensioner is adjusted to put spring tension on the cord, holding it taut under the top rail.

STATIONARY RAIL BOTTOM BRACKET Check that the stationary rail bottom bracket is installed into the bottom of the single stationary rail on left and right stack designs, and into the bottom of both stationary rails on center opening designs. The bracket should be inserted almost all the way into the rail, with the short side toward the rear. No bracket is used on center stack designs because both vertical rails are moving rails.



The stationary rail bottom bracket may have an inside mount adaptor attached to it. The adaptor allows the bracket to be attached to the casement in inside mount applications, rather than screwed into the floor through the bracket's bottom hole.

MOVING RAIL AND FABRIC INSTALLATION With the fabric stack(s) next to the correct end(s) of the headrail, you are ready to install the moving rail(s) and fabric onto the headrail. The bearings on the moving rail bracket are installed into the rear track in the top rail and the fabric carrier bearings are installed into the front track. The rail cross-section shown illustrates the two tracks.

Slide the bearings on the moving rail bracket into the rear track first. Then slide the fabric carrier bearings on to the front.







The above illustrations show moving rail and fabric installation for a left stack design. With a right stack design, the moving rail and fabric would be installed at the right end of the headrail. With a center opening design, installation could occur at either end of the headrail; a second moving rail bracket would be installed into the rear track after all the fabric carriers have been installed onto the front track. With a center stack design, a moving rail and fabric panel is installed into each end of the headrail.

After the fabric and moving rail(s) have been installed, the ends of the headrail are enclosed by attaching the stationary rail(s) and/or the end plate(s), as described next.

STATIONARY RAIL ATTACHMENT The stationary rail is attached to the top rail with a screw through the stationary rail bracket. The screw (supplied with the shade) fits into a channel between the front and rear tracks, as shown. Again, the illustration is for a left stack design. With a right stack design, the stationary rail would be attached to the other end of the top rail.

With a center stack design, no stationary rails are used.

With a center opening design, stationary rails are attached to both ends of the top rail. Be sure to insert the cord tensioner into the front groove inside the top rail before attaching the stationary rail bracket to that end of the rail. (See the end plate illustration below.)

END PLATE ATTACHMENT If necessary, install the cord tensioner and endplate at this time. First double-check to be sure the cord is not tangled. Then insert the cord tensioner into the front groove inside the top rail, and orient the end plate with the tab to the front and the notches on the top. Screw the end plate to the center channel using the the end plate screww provided,being careful not to pinch the cord between the rail and the end plate.

The illustration shows the end plate being attached to the top rail of a left stack design. With a right stack design, the cord tensioner and end plate would be installed on the left end of the rail.

With center stack designs, end plates are attached to both ends of the top rail. The second end plate on center stack designs has the opposite end of the cord attached to it, and is attached to the top rail in the same way.

Center opening designs do not use end plates, since stationary rails are attached to both ends of the top rail.

CENTER PULL PLATE INSTALLATION Center opening designs require a center pull plate to serve as a stop for the two moving rails. Attach the center pull plate inside the top rail. A hole for the screw is pre-drilled 1/2" to the left of where the two moving rails will meet when the shade is closed. Capture the tension cord in the open part of the center pull plate.




3) MOUNT AND ADJUST THE SHADE ASSEMBLY

MOUNTING THE SHADE Carefully lift the assembled shade. Place the top of the top rail against the bottom front of the installation brackets. Push the top rail straight back so that the front lip slides over the front of the brackets and the back lip fits over the tab on the brackets. Center the top rail and then tighten the tab screws to secure the shade.




STATIONARY RAIL BOTTOM BRACKET Attach the stationary rail bottom bracket to the floor, wall, or casement. Before attaching the bracket, use a carpenter's level to make sure the stationary rail is exeactly vertical when viewed from both the front and the side. Alternatively, you may adjust the rail to match the alignment of jambs or mullions.



With a wall-mounted bottom bracket on outside mount applications, use an extension bracket if it is necessary to move the stationary rail away from the wall.

The bracket on inside mount applications may be attached to the casement (the inside frame of the opening) using the inside mount adaptor. Simply attach the bracket to the casement with a screw through the adaptor hole.

Center opening designs use two stationary rail bottom brackets, one for each stationary rail. Center stack designs do not use stationary rail bottom brackets, since both vertical rails are moving rails.
CORD TENSIONER ADJUSTMENT The cord, which runs under the top rail and through the fabric, must be set at the proper tension. This adjustment is performed with the shade open all the way, so that the fabric is stacked.

To adjust the cord's tension, reach two fingers under the front of the top rail and hold the cord tensioner perpendicular between them. Slide the cord tensioner away from the end plate until you first feel spring resistance, and then slide it approximately 6" further away from the end plate. This will make the cord taut under the center of the top rail. (With center opening designs, you will be moving the cord tensioner away from a stationary rail bracket, not an end plate.)

Open and close the shade to check its operation. The moving rail should slide easily and hold its position when released. Decrease cord tension if the moving rail moves too stiffly, or increase tension if the rail does not hold its position.

MOVING RAIL ADJUSTMENT If necessary, adjust the angle of the moving rail using the adjusting screw on the moving rail bracket. Tighten or loosen the screw to straighten the rail or align it with the jamb. Tightening the screw adjusts the moving rail away from the fabric. Loosening the screw adjusts the moving rail toward the fabric.



If further adjustment is needed to adjust the rail towards the fabric, the moving rail bracket needs to be removed and the rear bracket bearing moved to the #2 hole. Un-mount the shade for inside mount designs. After the rear bearing is moved to the #2 hole, refer to the "Moving Rail and Fabric Installation" section to reinstall the moving rail and continue from there.
FINAL ASSEMBLY Handle holes are pre drilled into each moving rail. Attach the handle(s) using the screws provided.

Install end caps on outside-mounted units. Simply insert the end cap protrusions into the appropriate grooves on the top rail and push or tap the end cap until it is flush with the rail.

Install a magnetic strip and steel pull strip on inside-mounted units and all center opening designs. Remove the adhesive backing and fit the strips into the center groove on the moving rail(s) and on the jamb. Center stack designs require two sets of strips. With center opening designs, the magnetic strip fits into the center groove on one moving rail, and the steel pull strip fits into the groove on the other moving rail.

Full PDF Hunter Douglas installation instructions for Hunter Douglas brand Vertiglides can be downloaded by clicking here. Please note, this is a large file.

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