Shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the opening
Z-Strips pre-mitered and pre-hinged for use as mounting strips
Drywall screws for mounting strips (approx. 2-1/4” long)
Non-mortise Hinges (bright brass or white) mounted, pins separate
Inner-Panel Hinges (bright brass or white) mounted, pins separate
Magnetic Catches
Touch-up paint (when appropriate)
Need Help with Installation? Call our Toll-Free Customer Service Line
Unpack the cartons and carefully check for shipping damage and to see that you have all the items needed for
your installation. Based on the size of the window opening involved, you should receive 1 or more individual shutter panels, 2 side mount strips, 1 top
mount strip, 1 bottom mount strip if 4-sided frame, appropriate hinges already mounted, magnets, and (if the product is painted) a small bottle of
touch-up paint. We do NOT include mounting screws because specific requirements vary from window to window. If anything is missing, re-check the
packaging. If it is still missing, or if the shipment sustained damage in transit, contact the retail store where you purchased the shutters.
Steps:
These shutters are "custom" built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters
built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit in
each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the
acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.
Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see figure below) overlap
each other properly. When all panels, mounting strips and hinges are placed together properly in this type of "framed" mount, the total width and
height of the set should be the same as the width and height measurements given in your order.
With a 3-sided frame, the mounting strip sits on (or just above) the sill and the shutter panels start approximately 1/8 inch above the sill so they
can swing freely, as in this drawing...
With a 4-sided frame, a bottom mounting strip of Z-strip is attached to the window sill and the shutter swings just above it. The effect is as if the
shutter panels were completely surrounded by a “picture frame” made of Z-strip. In this case all the ends of all the mounting strips will be miter cut
(45 degrees).
Install shutter panels with the "notch" for the pushrod at the top. When installed, the pushrod faces the room. (See figure below, left.)
Each piece of mounting strip is precisely cut. If your original measurements on the order were accurate, these strips should not require adjustment
or modification.
On a flat surface, assemble the 3- or 4-sided frame for your shutters using the included screws in the pre-drilled, counter-sunk screw holes that
are perpendicular to each miter cut. Be very careful not to put undue strain on the corners of the frame as you handle it. Excessive force applied to
the screws will split the wood. When the frame is assembled, place the shutter panels in position and replace all included hinge pins.
Attach the framing pieces to your window jamb with the provided 2-1/4” drywall screws, if you have either wooden or drywall jambs. Jambs of other
types of material (brick, cement, metal, etc.) will require other types of screws or fasteners.
Please Note: Screws must be firmly set, and must anchor in wood or other structural material. DRYWALL (SHEETROCK) AND
PANELING WILL NOT SUPPLY ADEQUATE STRENGTH IN MOUNTING, AND PRESENT A DANGER OF INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE. Your mounting strip must be attached to wood,
through drywall into wood, or to other secure material.
Place the frame (usually done without the shutters in place... remove hinge pins) in the window. The mounting strip should be attached to the jamb
with screws as shown in the drawing at the top of the first page. We recommend that you "counter-sink" the screws so when installation is complete the
heads of the screws will be out of sight below the surface of the strip.
In this type of mount, it is sometimes necessary to "shim" between a framing piece and the jamb so the frame will be square and the shutter panels
will fit properly within it. If spacer shims are needed, back the mounting screws out, insert the shims, and re-tighten the screws. Do not use
excessive force in tightening the mounting screws because this could split the wood. Once firmly attached, replace the hinge pins you removed in the
previous step. Carefully swing the shutter open to check for alignment problems in relation to the sill.
The magnets will be mounted at the top immediately behind the shutter panels on the edge of the top mounting strip that faces down. With the left
shutter panel open on it’s hinges, position a magnetic catch immediately behind the "stile" of the right panel. Using the 2 matching screws provided,
attach the magnet to the trim. Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet with the 2 tiny "points" facing the room, then gently press the shutter
panel against the strike plate to make marks in the wood of the shutter "stile". Using those marks as your placement guide, attach the strike plate to
the back of the "stile" with the smallest screw provided (see figure below, left). Using the same procedure, attach any other magnetic catches that are
appropriate to your installation. If you prefer, the magnets can be mounted to the sill, or to the bottom strip of a 4-sided frame.
Use the touch-up paint (included if the shutters were painted at the factory) on any areas which were marred during the project.
All shutter panels come with "tension" screws deeply counter-sunk in each vertical edge. By simply turning the screw a little clockwise or
counter-clockwise with your Phillips head screw driver, you can gently tighten or loosen the louver/pushrod tension in each individual panel to suit your
preferences. When adjusting the tension, always spread the amount of adjustment evenly between all screws in BOTH edges of the individual panel (see
figure above, right).
Shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the opening
Framing Strips pre-cut and pre-hinged to shutter panels
Drywall screws for mounting strips (approx. 2-1/4” long)
Non-mortise Hinges (bright brass or white) mounted, pins separate
Inner-Panel Hinges (bright brass or white) mounted, pins separate
Magnetic Catches
Touch-up paint (when appropriate)
Need Help with Installation? Call our Toll-Free Customer Service Line
Before beginning, unpack the cartons and carefully check for shipping damage and to see that you have all the
items needed for your installation. Based on the size of the window opening involved, you should receive 1 or more individual shutter panels, 2 side
mount strips, 1 top trim strip, mounting screws, and magnets, and (if the product is painted) a small bottle of touch-up paint. If anything is missing,
re-check the packaging. If it is still missing, or if the shipment sustained damage in transit, contact your retailer.
Steps:
These shutters are "custom" built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for
those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit each window
opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement
(item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.
Within each window grouping shutter panels will be exactly the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see figure below) overlap
each other properly. When all panels and mounting strips are placed together properly in this type of "outside" mount, the total width of the set should
be the same as was specified in your order. The finished height (full length or café-style) should be what you specified in your order. Note that cafe
style shutters have no top trim piece. The hinges are included, and are attached at the factory. The hinge pins are removed at the factory, and will be
replaced by you during installation.
With a 3-sided frame, the mounting strip sits on (or just above) the sill and the shutter panels start approximately 1/8 inch above the sill so they
can swing freely, as in this drawing...
Install shutter panels with the "notch" for the pushrod at the top. When installed, the pushrod faces the room. (See figure below, left.)
Each piece of mounting strip is precisely cut. (See figure above, right.) The 2 side pieces are "square" cut at the bottom, and "miter" cut
(45 degrees) at the top. The top trim piece is miter cut on both ends. (Note: Café style, covering the lower part of the window only, has no top trim
piece, and the side pieces are square cut on all ends.)
The hinges are installed at the factory, and you will need to simply put the hinge pins back in the hinge after lining up the 2 parts of the hinge.
If your window opening contains more than 2 shutter panels, the "inner-panel" hinges were also installed at the factory. In like manner, line up the
2 parts of the hinge that are still attached to the shutter and the strip and place the pins in the hinges.
Please Note: Screws must be firmly set, and must anchor in wood or other structural material. DRYWALL (SHEETROCK) AND
PANELING WILL NOT SUPPLY ADEQUATE STRENGTH IN MOUNTING, AND PRESENT A DANGER OF INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE. Your mounting strip must be attached to wood,
through drywall into wood, or to other secure material.
Stand the left mounting strip on the sill and position it left-to-right so it is straight up and down and the outer edge is exactly where you want
it. The mounting strip should be attached with screws as shown in the drawing at the top of the first page. The factory will have pre-drilled the
countersink holes at an appropriate angle.
Hold the prepared strip in place and attach it to the wall with the screws. Excessive force will split the wood. Once firmly attached, replace the
hinge pins. Carefully swing the shutter open to check for alignment problems in relation to the sill. It may be necessary (when window opening is
out-of-square or off level) to adjust the strips up or down, in or out to achieve even clearance at the bottom and shutters that are in a flat plane.
Repeat the previous 2 steps for the other half of the window opening, making sure that the top framing piece will fit properly between the two side
mounting strips before tightening the screws.
The remaining piece of mounting strip is the ornamental top piece. Place the top piece in position and attach it to the side pieces using the
provided screws in the pre-drilled holes. Use care that on each end it forms a good joint with the side strip.
The magnets will be mounted at the top immediately behind the shutter panels on the edge of the top trim piece that faces down. (With Café style,
mount magnets on sill.) With the left shutter panel open on it’s hinges, position a magnetic catch immediately behind the "stile" of the right panel.
Using the 2 matching screws provided, attach the magnet to the top trim strip. Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet with the 2 tiny
"points" facing the room, then gently press the shutter panel against the strike plate to make marks in the wood of the shutter "stile". Using those
marks as your placement guide, attach the strike plate to the back of the "stile" with the smallest screw provided (see figure below, left). Using the same procedure, attach any
other magnetic catches that are appropriate to your installation.
Use the touch-up paint (included if the shutters were painted at the factory) on any areas which were marred during the project.
All shutter panels come with "tension" screws deeply counter-sunk in each vertical edge. By simply turning the screw a little clockwise or
counter-clockwise with your Phillips head screw driver, you can gently tighten or loosen the louver/pushrod tension in each individual panel to suit your
preferences. When adjusting the tension, always spread the amount of adjustment evenly between all screws in BOTH edges of the individual panel (see
figure above, right)
Drill with 3/8” wood “paddle” bit (optional, for counter-sinking screws)
General parts list:
The shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the opening
(see Figure “A” … 2 shutter panels illustrated)
Stop Strip (3/4” x 3/4”) for each window sill (pre-cut to length)
Drywall screws for mounting strips (~2 1/4” long)
Non Mortise Hinges with screws
Inner panel Hinges with screws
Magnetic Catches
Touch-up paint (when appropriate)
Need Help with Installation?
Call our Toll-Free Customer Service Line
Unpack the cartons and carefully check for shipping damage and to see that you have all the items needed for
your installation. Based on the size of the window opening involved, you should receive 1 or more individual shutter panels, 2 side mount strips, 1 top
mount strip, 1 bottom mount strip if 4-sided frame, appropriate hinges already mounted, magnets, and (if the product is painted) a small bottle of
touch-up paint. We do NOT include mounting screws because specific requirements vary from window to window. If anything is missing, re-check the
packaging. If it is still missing, or if the shipment sustained damage in transit, contact the retail store where you purchased the shutters.
Steps:
These shutters are “custom” built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit in each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.
Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be exactly the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see Figure “D”) overlap each other properly. When all panels are placed together properly, the total width of the set of panels should be about 1/4 inch less than the width of the window opening. The panels should also be 1/4” shorter than the height of the opening.
Install shutter panels with the “notch” for the pushrod at the TOP. When installed, the pushrod faces the room. (See Figure “A”)
Match up the shutter panels for each window opening, and insert the hinge pins that were removed at the factory. The removable pin in the hinge should be “up” (same direction as the pushrod notch).
If your window opening will contain more than 2 shutter panels, each shutter-to-shutter joint was also pre-hinged at the factory using the inner-panel hinge. Replace those hinge pins, too, to make sure that all panels fit properly together. Remove these hinge pins.
Position the far left panel on the window jamb with 1/8” (nickel width) top & bottom gap. Line up the front hinge knuckle with the wall surface, and use screws in the hinges … if jamb is other than wood or drywall, use other appropriate fasteners! Position any other (optional) panels beside the first one and replace the hinge pins. When these steps are properly completed, these shutter panel(s) should be able to swing freely without scraping (~1/8” gap) at the top and bottom.
Repeat this process with the shutters for the other (far right) half of the window opening. It may be necessary (when window opening is off level) to adjust the hinges, in or out to achieve that are in a flat plane.
(NOTE: If you have sills of marble or any material other than wood or drywall, do not proceed with the next step! The stop strip can be put at the top of the window.)
The stop strip (3/4” x 3/4”) fits behind the panels. Counter-sink near each end and in the middle (3 is usually enough). Place it on the window sill between the hanging strips and adjust it “front to back”
so that when the shutters come to rest against it they will be exactly where you want. Attach the stop strip to the sill through the middle counter-sunk screw hole first, using a drywall screw.
Where the shutters come together in the middle of the window the right panel overlaps the left panel (see Fig. D.) Swing the left panel(s) fully open, then close the right panel(s) and lightly mark where the shutter actually touches the stop strip. This is where you will place the magnetic catches. Using the screws provided, attach the magnet to the stop strip. Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet (with the 2 small points facing the room). Close the shutter and gently press in the area of the magnet so that the points make indentations in the shutter. Position the strike plate using those indentations as your guide, and attach the plate using the smallest screw in the package. If you have trouble placing these screws, drill very small “pilot” holes first. Position and attach all other magnets in their respective locations using the same procedure.
In every side edge of every shutter panel there is at least 1 tension screw inside a hole. Do NOT plug these holes. If the tension on the louvers ever needs adjustment, use a Phillips screwdriver and make minor adjustments. Be sure to spread the tension between all the available adjustment screws on each shutter panel.
Painted orders are usually shipped with a small container of matching touch-up paint. If any scratches were made in the finish during installation, use a small “modeler’s” paintbrush and cover them with this paint.
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