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Repairing Window Blinds and Shades

Before you start fixing your window blinds and shades, you might want to determine if they're beyond repair. Window treatments only have a certain amount of shelf life — sometimes the best bet is to invest in strong, durable window coverings that will look stylish in your window for years to come.

The most durable window blinds and shades around are faux wood blinds. With the beauty of wood but long-lasting design of manmade materials, faux wood blinds can last for years even in harsh conditions like heat and humidity.

Find durable window treatments — faux wood blinds!

Troubleshooting: How to Fix Your Window Treatments

For minor repairs and adjustments, read the tips below:
Or use our DIY Videos:

If you need assistance of any kind, please call us at 1-800.505.1905.



 

Wood Blinds & Faux Wood Blinds

Blind slats will not lower
When packaged for shipment, the slats of your blind are in the fully raised position.  Because of this, when you first try to lower your blind, the cord lock might not release, preventing the slats from lowering. First, you should hang the blind in the window.  Second, hold your lift cords level with the headrail and gently pull. This should release the cord lock.  If this does not fix the problem, take your blind out of the window.  Locate the cord lock mechanism in the headrail (the lift cords run through this).  You will see a pin.  Using a flat head (be careful to avoid contact with the cording) screwdriver, turn the screwdriver perpendicular to the headrail.  Push the pin to disengage the cords.  NOTE: As soon as you release the pin, the slats will lower. 

Blind slats will not tilt
Some times the tilt rod can become disconnected from the tilt mechanism in the headrail due to handling during shipment.  This causes the tilt mechanism to move while the slats stay in place.  To fix this, first remove the blind from the window.  When you look at the headrail you will see a metal rod that runs the length of your headrail. You should also see where the tilt mechanism is housed.  Gently push the end of the tilt rod back into the space where the tilt mechanism is located. Tip: If you push the rod through, you will get a more secure tilt positioning.  Replace the blind in the window.

Replacing a tilter
Remove your blind from the window. If you have a wand tilt, remove the wand. If you have a cord tilt, remove the tassels. Next, remove a metal end piece or plastic end cap from the headrail. Slide the tilt rod out just enough to clear the tilter. Then replace the tilter and gently push down until it snaps back into place. Try operating the tilter shaft until the flat portion of the tilter rod lines up with the flat portion inside the tilter. Now you can push the rod back through the tilter and replace the end cap. For a cord tilt, make sure the tassels are even when the blind is in the open position. The tassels must be attached after the cord tilter has been installed.

Valances & Cornices

Returns too long/short
Reference the installation instructions for help adjusting the hardware to desired length.

Top corners are not flush
First, adjust your valance return so that it is even. Then make sure that the plastic insert has been pushed fully to the bottom of the groove ( a thin long screwdriver will help with this). You can also add an addition insert at the top of the groove if necessary.

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Cellular Shades

EasyUp - Bottom of shade does not hang evenly
Sometimes this can happen if the cords get caught in the headrail. This can also happen if the "C" Clips are not evenly spaced on the tilt rod in the headrail. 
To fix, unhook the cording, then raise and lower the shade several times to test the operation.

Noisy operation
Sometimes on larger shades, the piece that keeps the long metals strips from rubbing against the headrail shifts out of position. This piece is a small plastic component that all the spears run through. Simply push this plastic component to the end of the metal spears to eliminate the noise.

Cord controls too long
First, untie the upper knot from the smaller cord that feeds into the cord collector. Push the stop ball up to the desired location and then retie the knot. Before you cut off excess cording, first lower the blind to make sure the length of the shade and the controls are satisfactory.

Frayed Cordloop
First, remove the control end cap by lifting the tab on the top of the headrail that locks the cap into place. The cap should then easily pop off. Remove the frayed cordloop by gently lifting the cord and turning the mechanism (Tip: a screwdriver inserted into the center of the mechanism allows for easy rotation). Start the new cordloop into the pulley by placing the cord into one of the teeth of the gear. Rotate the cordloop into place. Replace the control cap.

Cordlock Inoperable
Contact place of purchase for repair from the manufacturer.

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Cordless Cellular Shades

Creeping or sagging
If you notice your shade is creeping up from the bottom or sagging from the top, please look inside the headrail to check for the factory-installed friction clips. Contact customer service to receive friction clips and instructions to install into the spring motor. For shades that are sagging down from the top when raised, remove the bottomrail end caps from one end and look for one or more pieces of steel rod. Remove one piece at a time and check for improved performance. Then replace the end caps.

Hangs unevenly
In some instances, the lift tapes (white ribbons) in your cordless shade can become entangled. This problem can typically be solved by pulling the shade down completely. This will usually realign the tapes. Prevention Tip: Always lift your shade from the middle rather than the sides and do not lift too quickly as this creates slack in the ribbons.

Does not operate smoothly
Look inside the headrail at the spring motor and check for friction clips. Remove 1 or all of the friction clips and check for improved operation.

Will not lift
Gently pull down on the bottomrail to reactivate the spring. Tip: Anytime you leave your blinds in the closed position for an extended period of time, the spring will need to be reset in order to function properly.

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Aluminum Mini Blinds

Traditional Corded Blinds - Cordless Aluminum Blinds Below

Blind slats will not lower
When packaged for shipment, the slats of the blind are fully raised.  When you first attempt to lower the slats the cord lock may not release, preventing the slats from lowering.  First, mount the blind in the window.  Then hold the lift cords level with the headrail and gently pull.  This should release the cord lock.  If this does not solve the problem, take the blind out of the window.  Locate the cord lock mechanism in the headrail (the lift cords run through this).  You will see a pin. Using a flat head (be careful to avoid contact with the cording) screwdriver, turn the screwdriver perpendicular to the headrail.  Push the pin to disengage the cords.  NOTE: As soon as you release the pin, the slats will lower. 

Blind will not tilt/Slats will not turn
A guardian tilter continues turning even when the blind is fully closed preventing the mechanism from breaking. If the blind is small, it can easily become disconnected. To re-connect the tilter, proceed as follows; If the slats are closed in the down position, turn the wand counter clockwise and at the same time pull down gently on the back string of the ladders (supporting the slats). If the slats are closed in the up position, turn the wand clockwise and gently pull down on the front string of the ladders. If the above steps do not correct the problem, see replacing a tilter.

Replacing a wand tilter
First, remove the blind from your window, then remove the wand. To proceed, remove the metal end brace or plastic end cap from the headrail. Next, move the tilt rod out of the wand tilter. Replace the tilter and push it down until it snaps back into place. Then turn the tilter shaft until the flat portion of the rod lines up with the flat portion inside the tilter. Push the rod back through the tilter and replace cap/brace.

Restringing a blind
If the cords are not broken, you do not have to remove the blind. Begin by removing the ladder cap from the under side of the bottom rail.  Now that the ends of the cords are exposed within the bottomrail, pull them out slightly. Cut the old cord above the knot and weld the ends of the old and new cord together using a lighter or match. Roll the joined cords between your fingers to create a smooth weld. From the cordlock side, gently pull the tassel toward the left and this will pull the new cording through the same path. When the cording gets to the desired length for the controls to be, tie a knot in the ends by the bottomrail and cut off the excess. Replace the tassel and repeat process for additional cords.

Replacing Slats
Start by removing the ladder cap from the under side of the bottom rail.  This will expose the ends of the cords, which you can then pull out slightly. Cut the cord just above the knot and then pull the cord up through the last damaged slat. Remove the slats and replace them with the new ones, making sure that you insert the slats so that the route holes are aligned with the existing slats. Then weave the cords through the route holes being certain to alternate the sides of the ladder rungs as you proceed down the blind. Reinsert the cords into the bottom rail and tie them off. Replace caps.

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Cordless Aluminum Blinds

Hangs Unevenly
Raise the blind and then extend the blind completely. Repeat this operation slowly several times until your blind hangs evenly.

Creeping or Sagging
If you notice your shade is creeping up from the bottom or sagging from the top, please look inside the headrail to check for the factory-installed friction clips. Contact customer service to receive friction clips and instructions to install into the spring motor. For shades that are sagging down from the top when raised, remove the bottomrail end caps from one end and look for one or more pieces of steel rod. Remove one piece at a time and check for improved performance. Then replace the end caps.

Does not operate smoothly
Look inside the headrail at the spring motor and check for friction clips. Remove 1 or all of the friction clips and check for improved operation.

Will Not Lift
Gently pull down on the bottomrail to reactivate the spring. Tip: Anytime you leave your blinds in the closed position for an extended period of time, the spring will need to be reset in order to function properly.

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Sheer Horizontal Shadings

Vanes do not fully open
When the blinds are first received, sometimes the vanes do not fully open and partially obstruct the view even though the shade is fully lowered.  This is caused by static.  Downey Spray Wrinkle Remover or Magic Wrinkle Remover can be purchased from a local store and will not harm your shades when applied.  Spray the shade front and back with this product to remove static.

Roller Shades

Shade will not roll up all the way/difficult to operate
First make sure that the brackets are not rubbing against the ends of the roller or that the brackets have not been bent. Pull the shade partially down. Remove from brackets. Increase tension by rolling up the shade two revolutions. Replace in brackets and test. Repeat the procedure until the shade rolls up with proper tension.

Shade rolls up too fast/does not catch
Decrease the tension by raising the shade to the top and removing it from the brackets. Unroll approximately 18" by hand and then replace in brackets. Repeat until proper tension is achieved.

The shade does not roll up straight (telescoping)
Some fabrics have a tendency to telescope to one side or the other when being rolled up. To fix this, unroll the shade until you can see where the fabric is attached to the roller, put a small piece of masking tape at the attachment on the opposite end from where the shade is telescoping. A second or even third piece can be placed on to fix more extreme telescoping issues.

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Vertical Blinds

Vane out of alignment
When you want to remove a vane, slide a thin flat object (credit card, etc.) up the vane on the hook side of the vane holder. Then slide the vane and card down and out of the vane holder (vane should slide out easily). If process seems too difficult, check to make sure that the vane is not sliding back onto the hook.

Reattaching vanes
First remove the vane. Notice that the carrier body in the headrail has a rectangular hole which the stem fits into. Then align the carrier stem that needs adjustment with the hole. Insert a piece of string into the stem. Next, grasp the stem and push it into the carrier body. Now operate the rotation chain. You will now notice the stem now inside the body will not rotate. With the controls chain, rotate all other stems to line up with the one to be adjusted. Grasp both ends of the string and pull downward to move the stem back into the operable position. Then reattach the vane.

Control chain difficult to operate
Begin by removing the control end cap. You will see a pulley with a rod in the center. On this rod is a round metal washer with a ragged center (looks like a star). Occasionally this push nut is attached too tightly during production. Just tap the control rod lightly on the opposite end of the headrail and this will loosen the push nut and the controls should operate more smoothly.

Shortening the cord
If you look inside the headrail you will find the vane carrier where the cord ends in a knot. Hold that carrier and pull out the excess cord until the cord safety device reaches the desired height. Next, tie a knot in the cord at that position, but do not cut off the excess at this point. Operate the controls to determine if everything works smoothly and the control cord is the desired length. Lastly, tighten the know and cut the cord 1/2" below the knot.

Eliminate gaps between butting blinds
To create an overlap, mount the headrails with non-control ends touching. Look inside the headrail and you will see several small whitish tubes attached at the ends (these spacer tubes are c-shaped and can be popped off with a screwdriver). Next, remove one or more of these tubes which will allow that vane to move closer to the edge of the rail, allowing for overlap.

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